Argentina & Chile

Written By David Ross

A tour of Argentina's liveliest cities and Patagonia's most stunning scenery

18 nights, March 2019

Day 1

  • Arrive at Buenos Aires (EZE) airport

  • Uber to Airbnb in Palermo Hollywood (40 mins)

  • Coffee at LAB

  • Walk to Avant Garten for a drink and continue through the scenic gardens

  • Dinner at Proper (doesn’t take bookings, arrive for 9pm)

  • Visit La Viruta for some Tango

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

  • Fly from Buenos Aires > El Calafate (fly time: 3h)

  • Pick up car from Dubrovnik Car Rental: ensure they provide the necessary vehicle documents for travel to Chile

  • Drive > America del Sur Hostel: a friendly hostel with stunning views looking West over Lake Argentina

  • Walk loop Laguna Nimez Reserve (30 minutes, pass provides 7-day access)

  • Dinner at La Tablita: local meaty cuisine with a traditional Argentine barbeque as the focal point

Day 5

  • Drive > Los Glaciares National Park (approx. 1h, entry AP$750 each)

  • Stroll the steel walkways looking onto the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier

  • Lunch: picnic over self-prepared meal on beach, or lunch at Bar del Glacier Perito Moreno

  • Return > El Calafate

  • Dinner at Mi Rancha: one of the best restaurants in town, local food in a cosy setting with fantastic service

Day 6

  • Breakfast in hostel

  • Bring together picnic from supermarket

  • Drive to Lago Roca, parking at base of Cerro Cristal (approx. 1h)

  • Hike Cerro Crystal (park here): a fairly challenging but untrodden hike with stunning 360° views to make it all worth the effort (approx 3h: Strava map)

  • Drive to Lago Roca for a picnic

  • Fishing can be done from the banks. Obtain a day licence (AP$750) from the national park office in El Calafate and either bring your own equipment or look to rent from Calafate Fishing.

  • Dinner at La Zaina: a rustic restaurant where wine is the focus

Day 7

  • Check-out of American Del Sur

  • Early drive to Puerto Natales, Chile

  • Drive south down Route 40, joining Route 5 and then heading west on Route 7 towards Chancha Carrera and cross the border at Paso Rio Don Guillermo. Total drive time is about 5 hours – enjoy the broad landscape (map)

  • Check-in to Singing Lamb Hostel

  • Lunch at The Singular Hotel: built around a historic monument, the hotel has an impressive restaurant serving exquisite regional dishes

  • Pickup hiking equipment from Erratic Rock &/or local shop opposite Hostel Chorrillos

  • Head to supermarket to pick up snacks for 4 days

  • Dinner at Last Hope Gin Distillery: share plates and cocktails

Day 8

  • Leave extra luggage at The Singing Lamb (CP$1k/day, locker dimension can fit 80L bag)

  • Drive to Torres Del Paines National Park using route Y-290. Road is a little rough but the scenery is exceptional

  • Check-in to National Park (buy a ticket in advance – CP$21k)

  • Park the car at Pudeto Catamaran port (free)

  • Bus Pudeto > Guardaria Laguna Amarga (CP$5k per person)

  • Transfer Guardaria Laguna Amarga > Refugio Torre Central (CP$3k per person)

  • Check-in to Refugio Torre Central (book at least 3 months in advance)

  • Dinner at Refugio Torre Central

Day 9
Hike: Torre Central > Mirador Las Torres  > Torre Central > Refugio Cuernos (total 35km)
Top tip: get to Mirador Torres Del Pines for sunrise

  • Breakfast at 2:30am at Torre Central (order the night before)

  • Start hike at 3am with head torch and day bag: Torre Central > Mirador Las Torres (10km, approx 4h: Strava map)

  • Descend from Las Torres (10km, approx 3h)

  • Lunch and rest at Torre Central

  • Hike from Torre Central > Refugio Cuernos with backpack (14km, approx 6h: Strava map)

  • Check-in to Refugio Cuernos (book at least 3 months in advance)

  • Evening dip

  • Dinner at Refugio

Day 10
Hike: Refugio Cuernos > Refugio Italiano > Valley Frances > Mirador Britannico > Refugio Italiano > Refugio Grande Paine (22km)

  • Breakfast at 6.30 at Refugio Cuernos

  • Start hike at 7am with backpack and pack lunch (order the night before): Refugio Cuernos > Refugio Italiano (backpack drop zone) > Valley Frances > Mirador Britanico (10km, approx 3h: Strava map)

  • Descend to Refugio Italiano and collect backpack (6km, approx 1.5h)

  • Lunch and rest near Camp Italiano

  • Hike from Camp Italiano > Refugio Grande Paine with all belongings (7km, approx 2h: Strava map)

  • Check-in to Refugio Grande Paine (book at least 3 months in advance)

  • Dinner at Refugio

Day 11
Hike: Refugio Grande Paine > Grey Glacier  > Grande Paine (24 km)

  • Breakfast at 7.30am in Refugio canteen

  • Store backpack at Refugio and start hike at 8.30am with day pack: Refugio Grande Paine > Grey Glacier (12km, approx 3h: Strava map)

  • Return to Grande Paine (12km, approx 3h)

  • Lunch and rest at Refugio

  • Circa 5pm Catamaran from Grande Paine > Pudeto Port (CP$20k)

  • Pick-up car and drive to Puerto Natales via Torres Del Pines town (1h50m: map)

  • Check-in to The Singing Lamb Hostel

  • Dinner at Santolla: a very stylish restaurant located in shipping containers, the food is incredible. Try the scallops main, squid tapas.


Day 12

  • Check-out of The Singing Lamb

  • Drive from Puerto Natales > El Calafate

  • Check-in to MadreTierra Boutique Hostel

  • Dinner at Isabel: Serves ‘Cocina al Disco’ – a traditional chicken and vegetable stew

Day 13

  • Return car

  • Midday flight from El Calafate > Bariloche

  • Taxi for Bariloche Airport > Design Suites Hotel, Bariloche (20 mins)

  • Check-in to Design Suites Hotel

  • Taxi into town and explore the high street. Bariloche is the chocolate capital of Argentina so be sure to try at Rapa Nui and Mamuschka

  • Drinks at Manush: a pub serving local craft beer

  • Dinner at Alto El Fuego Parrilla (book in advance): serving exceptional steak in a simple, intimate restaurant

Day 14

  • Breakfast in hotel

  • Fishing with Outfitters Patagonia: float the crystal clear waters of River Limay, enjoy a delicious riverside BBQ put on by their outstanding guides

  • Taxi Design Suites > Cerveza Patagonia: a brewery and restaurant/bar with stunning views of the lake region (30-minutes)

  • Shuttle provided by Cerveza Patagonia back to town (AP$100 per person)

  • Dinner El Boliche de Alberto: renowned pasta restaurant

Day 15

Day 16

  • Overnight on bus

  • Morning run

  • Overnight Bus or fly from Bariloche > Mendoza

Day 17

Day 18

  • Breakfast at Rama Negra

  • Run through General San Martin Park

  • Lunch at Bodega Lagarde: dine under the trees overlooking the vineyard

  • Drinks at Hanger 52: a brewer’s warehouse with a lively atmosphere and craft beers

  • Dinner at Azafran: one of the best restaurants in Mendoza, be sure to checkout or even eat in the wine cellar

Day 19

  • Drive to Uco Valley with a driver at 10am, taxi (AP$5,000 for round trip)

  • Tasting at Bodega DiamAndes: an ultra-modern winery with Cathedral to Wine status

  • Lunch at Bodega Monteviejo (book in advance): (one the best restaurants in the area) with spectacular views across the valley

  • Return to Mendoza, collect bags

  • Overnight Bus or fly Mendoza > Buenos Aires 

Day 20

  • Bus arrives at 8am on the West of town

  • Taxi to Airport if flight around noon, if later, loose ends in BA

  • Outbound flight

 
David Ross
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